| Fri, Oct 09, 26 — Brian Lim | 0 COMMENTS

A cotton shirt worn 50 times accounts for about 0.09 kg of carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2e) per wear, while the same shirt discarded after seven wears accounts for about 0.61 kg, a per-wear footprint about seven times larger. Price tags reveal little about which shirt reaches 50 wears, so the wear count determines the true environmental cost.

Our team compiled figures from eight research sources, including a laboratory study that washed 47 T-shirts 50 times each. We then divided published shirt footprints by real-world wear counts, and the sections below move from the industry-wide footprint down to the fate of a single discarded shirt.

Key Takeaways

  • A cotton shirt's 4.3 kg CO2e footprint drops to 0.09 kg per wear over 50 wears, 86% below the per-wear figure for a shirt tossed after seven wears.
  • Laboratory testing of 47 T-shirts found no correlation between price and durability, with a $4 shirt outranking a $395 shirt after 50 washes.
  • Shoppers bought about 60% more garments per person in 2014 than in 2000, while each item lasted about half as long.
  • U.S. landfills received 11.3 million tons of textiles in 2018, about two-thirds of the 17 million tons Americans generated that year.

How Large Is the Fashion Industry's Environmental Footprint?

Textile production releases 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2e each year, and every garment that sits unworn adds to that total without being used. The broad figures that frame every cost-per-wear calculation appear in the table below:

Metric Figure
Growth in global clothing production, 2000 to 2015 About 2x, passing 100 billion units in 2015
Greenhouse gas emissions from textile production each year 1.2 billion tonnes CO2e
Water used each year by textile production, cotton farming included 93 billion cubic meters
Water it takes to make one cotton shirt 2,700 liters
Share of industrial water pollution from garment manufacturing About 20%
Plastic microfibers entering the ocean each year 0.5 million tonnes
Share of clothing material that returns as new clothing Less than 1%

Key Insights:

  • One cotton shirt requires 2,700 liters of water, the amount one person drinks in two and a half years.
  • Less than 1% of clothing material becomes new clothing, so a shopper's main way to lower a shirt's footprint is to wear it more times.

Cost Per Wear by Number of Wears

A shirt's production footprint stays fixed once it leaves the factory, so every additional wear shrinks the portion assigned to each outing. Our analysis below divides published shirt footprints by four benchmark wear counts (the calculations leave out energy used for home laundering):

Wear Count Cotton Shirt CO2e Per Wear
(4.3 kg Total)
Polyester Shirt CO2e Per Wear
(5.5 kg Total)
Cotton Shirt Water Per Wear
(2,700 Liters Total)
7 wears (discard point for some low-priced garments) 0.61 kg 0.79 kg 386 liters
10 wears (upper end of the reported discard range) 0.43 kg 0.55 kg 270 liters
30 wears (laboratory wash checkpoint) 0.14 kg 0.18 kg 90 liters
50 wears (full laboratory wash test) 0.09 kg 0.11 kg 54 liters

Key Insights:

  • A shirt worn 50 times has 86% less carbon per wear than one worn 7 times, regardless of the fiber.
  • A polyester shirt worn 30 times has less carbon per wear (0.18 kg) than a cotton shirt worn 10 times (0.43 kg).

Garment Lifespans Have Shrunk Since 2000

Shoppers now wear each piece of clothing fewer times than they did in 2000, so the average garment's per-wear footprint keeps rising. Researchers measure the shift through clothing utilization, the average number of times people wear a garment before they stop using it, and the 15-year decline appears in the table below:

Metric Figure
Garments bought per person, 2014 vs. 2000 About 60% more
Time shoppers keep clothing vs. 15 years earlier About half as long
Wears before shoppers discard the lowest-priced garments 7 or 8
Change in global clothing utilization over 15 years Down 36%
Change in clothing utilization in China over 15 years Down 70%
U.S. clothing use compared with the global average About one quarter
Share of fast fashion that shoppers discard within one year More than half

Key Insights:

  • American shoppers wear clothes about one quarter as often as the global average, which raises the per-wear footprint of every U.S. purchase.
  • The Waste and Resources Action Program (WRAP) estimates that keeping half of UK clothing in active use for nine more months would cut carbon per tonne of clothing by 8%.

Does a Higher Price Mean a Longer-Lasting Shirt?

Researchers at the University of Leeds put 47 T-shirts from UK brands through 50 wash-and-dry cycles, scoring each shirt on standard durability tests at set intervals. Their price-versus-durability results appear in the table below:

Finding Result
T-shirts tested 47 (24 men's, 23 women's)
Retail price range £4 to £395
Wash-and-tumble-dry cycles 50
Ranking of the £4 shirt 15th of 47
Ranking of the £395 shirt 28th of 47
Price of the last-place shirt £7.99
Shirts above the bursting-strength threshold 18 of 47
Top 10 shirts containing synthetic fibers 60%
Correlation between price and durability None found

Key Insights:

  • The study's authors concluded that price cannot indicate durability, since the £4 shirt outranked the £395 shirt by 13 places.
  • Shirts made from heavier 100% cotton fabrics ranked higher, so shoppers can treat fabric weight as a stronger durability signal than price.

Where Discarded Clothing Ends Up in the U.S.

Americans generated 17 million tons of textile waste in 2018, and most of it never reached a recycler. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) breakdown of that waste appears in the table below:

Destination Tons (2018) Share of Textiles Generated
Landfilled 11.3 million About 66%
Combusted with energy recovery 3.2 million About 19%
Recycled 2.5 million 14.7%
Total generated 17 million 100%

Key Insights:

  • Landfills took in 11.3 million tons of textiles in 2018, which equaled 7.7% of all municipal solid waste landfilled that year.
  • Globally, McKinsey research found that the equivalent of three in every five garments produced each year goes to disposal.

Further Reading

Want every cost-per-wear figure from this analysis in one place? Request a PDF copy of this report to keep the full tables on hand the next time you compare shirts.

Sources